Author: Thomas Wilcox

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Extraordinary Handmade Crème de Cassis

Wine is only one expression of France’s terroir. In our travels around the country we love sampling the others — from Belon oysters and real Epoisses to pâté de campagne and fleur de sel. One of our favorite such products is crème de cassis, a blackcurrant liqueur originally from Burgundy.

Most of the cassis available in the US is a far cry from the real stuff, and for years we looked for a real, artisan source to import. Finally last year, we got a tip about a small farm in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits that has produced cassis for 400 years. We visited the Ferme Fruirouge and sampled their small-batch, hand made crèmes. Fruirouge exceeded our lofty expectations by a mile — it’s simply the finest crème de cassis we’ve ever tasted.

 

 

The Olivier family has run the Ferme Fruirouge for nine generations. Today they raise their fruits organically and biodynamically, and their crèmes are the cleanest, purest, most intense extraction of fruit we’ve ever seen. Their Cassis is our favorite, a smooth, concentrated elixir (15% alcohol) packed with a startlingly intense taste.

The French most often use these crèmes for a kir or kir royale — a glass of dry white wine (usually aligoté) or sparkling wine with a splash of crème. It’s a refreshing, delightful cocktail that’s distinct, elegant, and festive. Those with a knack for cocktails will also find plenty of uses. And for those early rising readers, it’s a delicious addition to crèpes or waffles.

This is the perfect gift for the foodie or craft-food enthusiast in your family: a handmade product of the highest order, and one they certainly don’t already have. Or if you’d rather not give it away, serve it at a New Year’s party next week and the bubbles will be even more fun than usual.

Orders placed by midnight tonight will arrive at addresses within two days of Boston on Saturday 12/23. Free East Coast shipping on one bottle.

 

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Fruirouge Crème de Cassis (750ml)

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“Overperforming” Five-Year-Old Red Burgundy from Michel Gros.

In Burgundy, as in real estate, location is everything. Each town has its own character, and each produces a unique wine. The appellation lines drawn by monks centuries ago remain remarkably accurate today. But as you might expect, near the border between two appellations the characteristics often blur.

It’s from one of these transitional zones that today’s wine hails. The label says “Nuits-St-Georges,” and the wine displays the meaty richness for which the town is known. But the specific plots are very near the border with Vosne-Romanée, and this wine borrows a bit of the elegance and spice from its famous neighbor.

Some might say the wine doesn’t perfectly represent either village. We think it’s an elegant and delightful marriage of the two.

 

 

Michel Gros lives and works in Vosne-Romanée, but he’s a masterful winemaker regardless of the appellation. In 2012, very low yields made for wines of unusual depth and concentration. Today’s wine combines intense fruit with Gros’s signature style: an enticing bouquet of redcurrants and licorice. In the mouth it’s silky and dense, showing cassis, toast, plum, and just a hint of spice.

Jancis Robinson listed Gros as one of five “overperforming” red Burgundy producers in 2012. Burghound (Allen Meadows) called the 2012 Nuits “appealingly fresh,” and “very round,” finding “excellent richness.” With four years in the bottle, it has begun to drink extraordinarily well (though it will improve over another 3-4 years in the cellar, if you can keep your hands off it).

Today, after just a few minutes in a carafe or decanter, this wine will transport you to the Burgundy of centuries ago — think woven tapestries, roasted meats, and ancient stone chateaux. Speaking of roasted meats, this bottle matches perfectly with a steak.

 

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Michel Gros Nuits-St-Georges 2012

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Classic, Opulent 2015 Meursault: “If Gold Were a Flavor…”

“If gold were a flavor,” Matt Kramer once wrote, “it would taste like Meursault.” Though it has no Grand Cru, the wines of Meursault are some of the most sought after in the world. For most, the name recalls white Burgundies of decadence, opulence, and style.

Stretching across nearly 1000 acres, Meursault also spans a wide range of terroir, producing taught, elegant wines (like Narvaux) high on the slope, and softer, richer wines nearer the town. Today’s 2015 Meursault from the Domaine Boyer-Martenot is from the lower slopes, and draws on 90+ year old vines for extra concentration and depth.

 

 

Planted in 1924 by Vincent Boyer’s great grandmother Lucie, the “Ormeau” vineyard is named for the elm trees that once shared the clay-rich ground. This is classic, mouthfilling Meursault – showing peaches and citrus, with licorice and a faint nuttiness in the nose. All of Boyer’s wines are rich, elegant, and complex, but “Ormeau” is among the most classically Meursault in the lineup.

Boyer’s suggests any fish in a lemon butter sauce, and we heartily agree with his suggestion. This is a concentrated, wintertime white Burgundy, perfect for a chilly afternoon, a crackling fireplace, and a glittering Christmas tree.

 

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Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Ormeau” 2015

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Exceptional New 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru: 92 points and Worth the Wait.

It’s difficult to find new sources in Burgundy. Supply is very limited and most producers work with other US importers. Finding high quality additions to our portfolio involves lots of research and tasting, good timing, and a healthy dose of luck.

When we first read about the Domaine des Varoilles, we were skeptical. Their past was storied, with vines first planted in the 12th century (not a typo). Their properties are remarkable — no fewer than four monopoles in Gevrey-Chambertin, two at the premier cru level. They boast 90+ scores from Burghound, high praise from Jancis Robinson, and a raft of Coup de Coeur awards from the Guide Hachette.

Such expectations set an awfully high bar, but in fact the wines at Varoilles exceeded their lofty billing. It took a while for them to make their way across the Atlantic this fall, but now that they’re here we can confirm they are worth the wait. Today we’re excited to release their signature wine, the Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Clos des Varoilles” from the excellent 2012 vintage.

 

 

The Domaine des Varoilles is named for the Clos des Varoilles, a huge 6-hectare premier cru monopole located among the best premier crus in Gevrey-Chambertin. Historical documents reference its initial planting in the 12th century, and it’s from this vineyard that today’s wine comes.

The terroirs of Gevrey-Chambertin produce the meatiest and most intense red wines in all of Burgundy, and the Varoilles is among the densest Gevrey we’ve had. The 2012 Clos des Varoilles is exceptional, with inky notes of plum, earth, cassis, and a hint of sauvage. Allen Meadows (Burghound) found “excellent richness,” “intense and overtly powerful,” and a “tautly muscular finish,” and awarded 92 points.

A rich style, a meaty appellation, and a low yielding vintage have all combined to make a wine that should age with grace. But the bottle we decanted last week was startlingly good — if you’ve got beef on the menu and don’t have a Christmas bottle picked out, our East Coast order deadline is Wednesday…

 

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Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er “Clos des Varoilles” 2012

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Elegant Premier Cru White Burgundy: Almond, Honey, and Toast

Weather plays a crucial role in the character of a wine. Recent years in Burgundy have provided no shortage of challenges — from hail to frost to mildew and more. Luckily there are also some bright spots — the 2015 vintage provided both quantity and quality. Nearly every wine drinks better than its label: simple table wines drink like village-level Burgundies, and village wines resemble premier crus.

We’ve long found St-Aubin a source for exceptional value in white Burgundy. Indeed Jancis Robinson recently wrote that St-Aubin “should now be regarded as virtually [the] equal” of its more famous neighbors Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet. This statement particularly rings true in a year like 2015.

 

 

Though many wines in St-Aubin punch above their weight, few are more impressive than the 1er cru St. Aubin from Gérard Thomas. This wine comes from “Murgers des Dents de Chien,” a plot of vines high on a ridge from which one can see north and south along the golden slope.

The 2015 “Murgers” is refined and elegant. The fruits are ripe and rich, with mouthfilling intensity and subtle use of oak. The nose shows lemons and toast, with almonds and wild honey in the mouth. Without the label in front of you it could easily be mistaken for Puligny or Chassagne.

Pair this with any fish or chicken dish — Julia Child’s chicken with mushrooms and cream is a favorite chez nous. But whatever the occasion, when white Burgundy is called for this is a delicious and affordable example.

 

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Thomas St-Aubin 1er cru “Murgers des Dents de Chien” 2014

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Rich, Velvety New Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

Prices in Bordeaux have never been higher. Due to increasing global demand, particularly from Asia, it is harder and harder to find values in the region. In search of high quality wines that also offer good value, we often consider second wines of famous vineyards or secondary properties from famous winemakers.

Christian Dauriac, for example, owns the Chateaux Destieux and Montlisse in St. Emilion. Destieux, a Grand Cru Classé, is his flagship and deserves the praise it receives. But the Grand Cru Chateau Montlisse is an exceptional bargain that we have enjoyed for years. It’s the product of an accomplished winemaker with excellent terroir, but at a far more reasonable price.

 

 

We’ve just received the 2014 Château Montlisse, and it’s a perfect wine for the frigid weather of late. Made from 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, it’s a rich, velvety blend with a classic combination of dark fruit and spice. Even with only a few years in the bottle it has already smoothed out into a dense, beautifully textured, classic right bank Bordeaux. Look for notes of plums and toast with cassis and dark chocolate in the mouth.

It’s unusual to find fine Saint Emilion at this price. But to find it with perfect provenance — (this wine was in Montlisse’s cellar until last month) — is even rarer. Good Bordeaux often carries a three- or four-figure price tag, but it’s good to remember that it doesn’t have to. Serve this with good steak or veal, or something roasted on a chilly Sunday afternoon.

 

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Montlisse St-Emilion Grand Cru 2014

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“Magnificent” 15-year-Old Champagne in Magnums.

We often preach the value of well-aged wines. Under the right conditions, time has a magical effect on a bottle of wine. Usually it’s red wines (or sometimes whites) that are ageworthy, but we often forget the third category: Champagne.

Champagne evolves in two stages. The first is pre-disgorgement, when fermented wine rests in the bottle under a tight seal and the lees add complexity and richness. The second happens post-disgorgement: the lees are removed, a cork is added, and the wine begins to pick up secondary notes like caramel and nuts.

2002 Champagne would be exciting in any format. Master of Wine Jancis Robinson called it “a magnificent year in Champagne,” and now 15 years on, considerable aging has already occured. But this particular Champagne, resting on the lees in perfect conditions for 15 years, and disgorged earlier this year, is even more special — it’s in magnums.

 

 

Pascal Bardoux is our Grower Champagne producer in Montagne-de-Reims. His wines are exceptionally fine and complex, with the recent 2010 vintage winning many awards. If Champagne is naturally celebratory, and magnums are festive by nature, then this wine is nothing short of an experience.

We were amazed at the fresh and clean mouthfeel of the magnum of 2002 Pascal opened for us this spring. Over the last 15 years the wine has gained an extraordinary complexity, with subtle notes of dried fruits, apple pie, fig, oats, and dried roses. These magnums offer a chance for you to set your own course — its first life is complete; the second is up to you. It’ll be delicious by Christmas, and even more in five.

Champagne is naturally festive. The pop of the cork, the sparkle in the glass, the lively texture on the palate — centuries of marketing have done their trick, and the wine is forever linked with glamor and occasion. If you’ve got a holiday party coming up, or just couple close friends for New Year’s Eve dinner, consider one of these — your guests won’t soon forget it.

 

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Bardoux Champagne 2002 (1.5L)

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The Michel Gros 2015 Red Burgundies have arrived, at last.

The first inquiries about the 2015 Michel Gros lineup started coming in more than a year ago. Our best-known producer; the vintage of a generation; “just want to make sure I don’t miss it.” Back in April, our barrel tastings confirmed 2015’s considerable hype — magnificent wines by a legendary producer from what may be the best vintage in decades.

And now — after months of waiting, trucking delays, and anticipation so intense we could almost taste the Pinot Noir — they are in our warehouse at last. We won’t have time to introduce the whole lineup today, but it’s linked here on our website: 2015 Michel Gros Red Burgundies.

Over the weekend we opened the 2015 Gros Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Michel’s simplest 2015 in stock. And it’s a perfect place to start with this very special vintage.

 

 

Great winemakers make excellent wines from even their humbler parcels. Gros is famous for his very fine red Burgundies, and we can’t recommend them enough. But for more regular enjoyment, Gros’s simpler wines show the refinement and class of much fancier bottles.

The Gros Hautes Côtes de Nuits comes from the hills to the west of Michel’s famous plots in the Côte de Nuits. In a regular vintage this wine punches above its weight, with a complexity and refinement you’d expect from a $50 red Burgundy. In 2015, it’s not to be missed.

The nose is is ripe, toasty, and elegant. Look for notes of violets and earth, and a surprisingly polished and long mouthfeel. We found plum, raspberry, cloves, and spice. We expect Michel’s the rest of 2015s to drink well for decades to come. But this one is a treat already. For a Burgundy lover, this is about as good a wine as $35 will ever buy.

 

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Gros Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2015

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Rich, Cozy Red from the Sunny Southern Rhône.

There’s no better wine for wintery weather than one made in a sunny spot. The rich wines of the Southern Rhône valley spend the summer soaking in the clear Provençal sun — they’re a perfect match for cold weather. Châteauneuf-du-Pape gets most of the attention in the Rhône, but if you know where to look, there are delicious and affordable wines across the valley.

The rich reds of the Domaine Malmont are a perfect example. Winemaker Nicolas Haeni grew up in the area, and now farms a new vineyard in hills east of Séguret. Malmont is tiny — Nicolas works the vines himself with only one part time employee, and his winery is a small garage attached to his house — but the quality is exceptional.

We’ve just restocked on Malmont’s 2015 Séguret, a wine that gets better every time we open it.

 

 

The Malmont vineyard is an extraordinary polycultural environment. Wild herbs and grasses surround Nicolas’s organically-farmed vines, and the gently sloping terraced rows buzz with life. From this verdant plot with a commanding view of the valley, Nicolas crafts an exceptional series of wines.

A tasting panel at Decanter Magazine recently named Nicolas’s 2015 Séguret among the top nine Southern Rhône reds tasted. They found a “beefy” wine with a “nicely muscular quality” and “deep-seated cherry fruit.” As the temperatures drop and friends and family gather, we think it’s the perfect bottle for a cozy winter’s evening.

The wine is unusually expressive grenache/syrah blend. The nose is dark and spiced, with notes of cassis and violets. The mouth is very rich and long, but balanced by a pleasant freshness and sturdy tannins — look for notes of lavender, cherry, black pepper, and raspberry jam.

Pair this stews and other rich foods of the Holiday season. Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be extraordinary, but this wine is proof you don’t need to pay top dollar to get something rich and special from the Rhône.

 

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Malmont Séguret 2015

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Smooth, Affordable 2015 Red Burgundy: the New Desvignes Givry. $25

The Côte d’Or is home to nearly all of Burgundy’s most famous wines. As monks learned centuries ago, the region’s combination of soil, exposition, slope, and weather makes it a near-perfect place to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

But it’s a mistake to ignore the rest of Burgundy. It may be more difficult to produce great wines outside the Côte d’Or, but with a skilled winemaker and a great vintage, the results can be excellent. And such is the case with the just-arrived 2015 Givrys from the Domaine Desvignes. In a normal year these are pleasant, hearty, well made red Burgundies with delicious fruit and lots of character. But in 2015, they’re at a whole new level.

 

 

Gautier Desvignes is a 20-something winemaker who took over his family’s domaine a few years ago. He has brought new energy and modern techniques to the winemaking, and the results have been nothing short of exceptional. Gautier has managed to transform a humble, traditional family winery into one making some of the most popular wines in our portfolio.

Just as his new ideas were taking effect, Mother Nature presented him with 2015, a near perfect vintage. And Gautier took full advantage, producing red Burgundies on a level seldom seen outside the Côte d’Or.

Today we’re releasing the Desvignes Givry “Meix au Roy” 2015, a village-level Givry that drinks far above its $25 price tag. The nose is ripe and beautifully textured, with notes of cherry jam, violets, stones, and baking spices. The mouth is fresh and young but not at all harsh, with a rich, juicy attack followed by a smooth, perfectly balanced, mouthfeel that’s far more refined than most Gviry.

The Desvignes wines age well, and particularly in 2015 there’s no rush to drink them. But judging by the speed that yesterday’s bottle disappeared at our warehouse tasting, you won’t want to keep your hands off them for long.

 

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Desvignes Givry 2015

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Exquisite 2015 Côte Rôtie: Anise and Plums, 93 points

Sometimes the most impressive wines come from the most unassuming of winemakers. We see our fair share of egocentric vignerons, but often the most talented winemakers are the quietest.

So it is with Christophe Bonnefond. In good years and bad, rain or shine, he greets us with a faint smile and few words. His emails usually contain a phrase or two — if we’re lucky, a whole sentence. But his wines are the work of a master; and they’re anything but faint.

Bonnefond’s wines are pure Syrah, grown on the steep slopes of Côte Rôtie. Together with his brother Patrick, Christophe produces exceptional reds from the Northern Rhône, the region where Syrah finds its most noble expression. The Bonnefonds work some of the more famous plots in the region, but also produce a regular cuvée that requires much less time and is far more affordable: the Colline de Couzou.

 

 

In most years this cuvée is an excellent buy — a beautifully made Côte Rôtie for under $60. But in 2015, it’s nothing short of a steal. In a vintage where Northern Rhône reds have been called “the best in 55 years,” the Colline de Couzou is an exceptional wine and a great value.

The nose shows black pepper, olive, and blackberry; the mouth is very dense, elegantly textured, and extremely long, with notes of anise, plum jam, and cloves. Josh Raynolds of Vinous awarded 91-93 points, finding “silky tannins” and “excellent clarity.”

Consider this for Christmas dinner this year — in a decanter it would be perfect for a standing rib roast or other grand dish. And if you have room in your cellar, it should be even better for Christmas in 2020.

 

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Bonnefond Côte Rôtie “Colline de Couzou” 2015

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Mixed Case: The Ultimate 2015 Red Burgundy Sampler ($151 off)

There has been no shortage of ink spilled on the 2015 red Burgundies. Decanter says it is “extraordinary…the red wines are truly great.” Stephen Tanzer of Vinous calls it “one of the half-dozen top vintages for red Burgundy of the past generation.” Burghound concludes: “a genuinely great vintage.” And so on.

We’re often skeptical of critical fervor, but the 2015s we’ve tasted so far live up to the hype. They are full of bursting ripe fruit, solid tannic structure, excellent balancing freshness, and clear, precise expression of terroir. It’s a Burgundy lover’s dream — or, as Tanzer put it, “you are so going to want them.”

So here’s a mixed case of some of the highlights of the vintage. It includes village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru cuvées — two bottles each of six different appellations from six different vignerons. If you’ve got room in your cellar and just a bit of patience, you really can’t go wrong with them.

 

 

2x Belland Pommard 2015
2x Gros Vosne-Romanée 2015
2x Quivy Gevrey-Chambertin “En Champs” 2015
2x Amiot Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Ruchots” 2015
2x Prunier Volnay 1er cru “Cailleret” 2015
2x Ravaut Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2015

 

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Mixed Case: 2015 Red Burgundy Sampler

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Six-Year-Old Pomerol: Rich, Wintery, and Velvety

Wine classification changes dramatically from one region to another. The Old World tends to identify wines by place, while the New World tends to use grape varietal. It seems a minor shift, but it has important implications for the way people perceive wines.

An example: call a wine Merlot and noses turn up (thanks, Sideways). Call the wine Pomerol, and suddenly you have our attention. In fact, Pomerol is proof that great wine can be made from Merlot. In his landmark World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson calls Pomerol “the gentlest, richest, most velvety and instantly appealing form of red Bordeaux.” Today we’re suggesting the 2011 Pomerol from the Chateau la Clemence, a wine we’re sure would convert anyone to the grape.

 

 

Clemence is classic Pomerol — bold, rich, and smooth. The average vines in the tiny 7 acre vineyard are over 50 years old, and winemaker Christian Dauriac keeps yields low, often near 20 hectolitres per hectare. The result is a mouthfilling wine that ages beautifully. Jancis Robinson called it “appetizing,” “polished and intense.”

Now 6 years on from harvest, this Pomerol is a delight. It shows dark, stewed cherries, licorice, and toast in the nose; the mouth is long and rich, with jammy plum fruit, dark chocolate, and tobacco. It’s a perfect rich red for a frigid wintery evening. Pair it with a peppercorn crusted steak, and you won’t care what they call it.

 

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Chateau la Clemence Pomerol 2011

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Nine Centuries of Opulence: Rich, Golden, Old-Vine Meursault

The wines of Meursault may be popular today, but it’s hard to describe them as a passing fad. The monks of Citeaux first planted vines there in 1098, and over the last nine centuries the village has proudly earned its glowing reputation.Though it has no Grand Cru vineyards, Meursault’s wines are among the most sought after in the world.

We began buying from Vincent Boyer more than a decade ago, and since then the international wine press has widely acclaimed him as a rising star. This year we allocated some of his Meursault “Narvaux,” a village level white considered among Meursault’s finest. Boyer coaxes his 70 year old Chardonnay vines into perfect expressions of this extraordinary terroir.

With old vines, a master winemaker, and exceptional terroir, this is not a wine to miss.

 

 

Meursault is about decadence, opulence, and style, and Narvaux embodies all of these. The vineyard perches just above Meursault’s premier crus and borders the famous Genevrières. Boyer’s 2015 “Narvaux” is a classic, with wonderful mouthfilling intensity drawn from the richness and density of the fruit. The nose is lovely and generous, showing white flowers, hazelnut, and apricot. The mouth is full but tense, showing pear and white flowers, with a long, vibrant finish.

Wine critic Allen Meadows (Burghound) called the 2015 “lovely,” “elegant,” and “beautifully nuanced” in the nose, and “rich, intense and delicious” in the mouth. In short, this is golden, classic, mouthfilling white Burgundy from a master winemaker — serve it on a chilly wintery evening and you might not even want to open a red.

 

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Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Narvaux” 2015

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Juicy, Refreshing New 2015 Red Burgundy: Earth and Cassis

The Domaine Ravaut is the ultimate local wine source. For 120 years the family has cultivated a loyal clientele of friends, neighbors, and workers at the stone quarry in the hamlet of Ladoix. Though they have expanded their reach in recent years, they still sell more than half of their wine to folks who walk in the front door.

Today the winemaker is Vincent Ravaut, a friendly, thirtysomething son who has mastered cellar work. His diligence and careful attention during vinification and ageing results in wines of perfect balance. We’re just now beginning to enjoy his 2015 reds, and they’re just as good as you’d imagine.

 

 

Today’s Ravaut wine is their Côte de Nuits Villages, from vines near the border with the Côte de Beaune. The 2015 is succulent and juicy, with bursting tannins and dark, pure fruit. Think the joie-de-vivre of a Cru Beaujolais with the refinement and class of Pinot Noir. Jancis Robinson agreed, finding it “robust” with a “fine, chalky texture” and “excellent freshness.”

Like most of the 2015 red Burgundies, this is a delightful, refreshing glass on its own. The nose shows raspberry jam, graphite, and cassis — it’s a seductive and utterly pleasant bouquet. But the ripe tannins are an excellent match for food, with notes of plum and earth on a persistent, lively finish.

Serve this with a roast chicken on a Sunday afternoon.

 

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Ravaut Côte de Nuits-Villages 2015

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