Chardonnay is responsible for all of Burgundy’s finest white wines. But 10% of white wine vineyards in Burgundy are Aligoté, a less celebrated grape that produces simple, refreshing wines. Aligoté is seldom magnificent, but in the hands of the right winemaker it can be delicious.
Only two white wine terroirs in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or hold the status of Grand Cru. Montrachet and its satellites, in the south between Chassagne and Puligny, are the more famous. The other is Corton-Charlemagne, perched on a large hill marking the midpoint of the Côte d’Or, so named after it was made a gift from the Holy Roman Emperor.
The 2015 vintage turned out excellent red wines all across Burgundy. From the Beaujolais to Dijon, and from simple Bourgogne to illustrious Grand Crus, the 2015s are worthy of all their considerable praise. Their perfect structures hint at long lives, but their fruits make them simply delightful today.
St. Aubin is the insider’s white Burgundy. For years we’ve pointed our friends and customers here for remarkable values. We are not alone – author/sommelier Rajat Parr writes that “it produces some of the best-value Chardonnays in the world.” Jancis Robinson recently wrote that though once passed over for its more famous neighbors Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet, St-Aubin “should now…
White Burgundy is among the food-friendliest wines around. It’s possible to go really specific with the pairing -- match a perfectly aged Meursault, open for an hour, with veal medallions in just the right amount cream, a hint of lemon, carefully sauteed mushrooms, a sprig of parsley… you get the idea.
Much like Volnay and Pommard we wrote about recently, Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges are neighboring towns with opposing characters. Vosne tends towards elegance, finesse, and spice; Nuits towards richness, more structure, and bolder flavors. In the hands of a talented winemaker, both can be superb.
The idea of terroir dominates the wines of Burgundy. From a single grape planted across 30 miles of small towns comes an astonishing diversity of wines. Cellar work, weather, harvest times, and other factors play a role in the final product, but in Burgundy, the place (terroir) is king.
Burgundy is in short supply these days. Seven consecutive short vintages, increasing demand from international buyers, and a weak dollar mean that even when you can find them, white Burgundies are noticeably more expensive than a few years ago.
The Grand Crus on the Hill of Corton are some of the longest lived wines in Burgundy. The top names like “Bressandes,” Renard,” and “Clos du Roi” feature sturdy tannins and intense, robust mouthfeel. Many require years to begin to show their stripes, and some are still in fine form several decades on.
Two main distinctions separate Champagne and other French sparkling wine. First, terroir: Champagne’s unique chalky soils contribute to the singular flavors of its wines. Second, time spent on the lees: Champenois must age their wines for at least 15 months on the lees, adding complexity and depth.
Beaujolais has always had a turbulent relationship with the rest of Burguntdy. To many in the Côte d’Or, the Beaujolais represents overmarketed and undercrafted wine. But in recent years the Beaujolais has undergone a renaissance, as the prominence of Nouveau recedes and more vignerons make ageworthy wine.
The Côte d’Or produces nearly all of Burgundy’s most famous wines. It’s split into the Côte de Nuits (famous for its reds), and the Côte de Beaune (famous for its whites); if you’ve got an expensive, ageworthy Burgundy, it’s almost certainly from the Côte d’Or.
It’s hard to go wrong with the 2015 red Burgundies. Our favorite reviewers, those with restraint and objectivity, have all been effusive. “One of the half-dozen top vintages for red Burgundy of the past generation,” writes Steven Tanzer of Vinous. “A genuinely great vintage,” opines Allen Meadows (Burghound).
When vines grow old, vignerons are faced with a choice. Older vines mean lower yields, which can squeeze a domaine’s bottom line. But old vines also produce more concentrated and better quality juice, leading to wines of depth and intensity. We are always pleased to find vignerons who sacrifice quantity for quality and allow their vines to continue into old…
If you ever need to convert someone to white Burgundy, pour them a glass of Meursault. Made from pure Chardonnay and grown in soils balanced between marl and chalk, Meursault is some of most opulent white wine in the world. Chardonnay can make rich, mouthfilling wines in most locations -- but those from Meursault also contain elegance, minerality, and balance.