Author: Thomas Wilcox
Charming New 2015 Gamay. $19.95
Saint-Valentin. In France, Saint-Amour is known as the most “romantic” of the Beaujolais Crus. Located at the northern end of the Beaujolais region, it’s neither the richest nor the most tannic wine of the region. But the wines from this Cru possess a silky, enchanting quality. Whether it’s the amorous name or the smooth berry fruit, there’s always something charming about Saint-Amour.
Today’s Saint Amour is from the famous 2015 vintage, among the best in a generation in Burgundy. A warm dry summer resulted in near-perfect conditions for winemaking, and the results in the Beaujolais (what’s left of them) speak for themselves. If you don’t have something planned for Valentine’s day in a few weeks, consider picking up a few of these.
Fruit. We discovered Laurent Perrachon last summer, and have blown through our stock nearly everything we bought from him since. (We held onto the Saint-Amour for a February release.) Perrachon is one of very few Beaujolais winemakers to be featured in both Burghound’s (Allen Meadows) newsletter and Antonio Galloni’s Vinous, and most of his wines score in the 90s in both publications.
The soils in Saint Amour are full of schist and limestone, which make for wines with soft, floral character, balanced by an energetic minerality. Perrachon’s 2015 Saint Amour shows beautiful raspberry and cassis fruit in the nose, with bright red flowers and a pleasant chalky minerality. The mouth is crisp and juicy, with a smooth palate and a refreshing, fruit-laden finish.
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PERRACHON Saint-Amour 2015
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case price: $19.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Saturday Recipe: Seared Duck Breast
Juicy, Refreshing New Red Burgundy: Raspberry, Graphite, Cassis
Fruit. The Domaine Ravaut is the ultimate local wine source. For 120 years the family has cultivated a loyal clientele of friends, neighbors, and workers at the stone quarry in thee hamlet of Ladoix. Though they have expanded their reach in recent years, they still sell more than half of their wine to clients who walk in the front door.
Today the winemaker is Vincent Ravaut, a friendly, thirtysomething son who has mastered cellar work. His diligence and careful attention during vinification and ageing results in wines of extraordinary freshness. Particularly in a year like 2014, the Ravaut reds are among the most juicy, pleasant, and refreshing pinots in our cellar.
Succulent. Today’s Ravaut wine is their Côte de Nuits Villages, from vines near the border with the Côte de Beaune. Ravaut’s 2014s have remarkably pure, dark red fruit — at their best they are fruit-forward, floral, lively Pinot Noirs with round, approachable tannins. Jancis Robinson agreed, finding this wine “succulent with a lovely fresh, juicy finish.”
The CDNV 2014 is a wine to enjoy now with food, and in a year on its own. The nose shows raspberry jam, graphite, and cassis — it’s a seductive and utterly pleasant bouquet. The nose shows 2014’s cool, juicy, crackling tannins — punchy and bright on the palate, with enough fruit stuffing behind it to keep it perfectly weighted.
Serve this with roast chicken on a Sunday afternoon — you won’t even have to move to Ladoix to get some.
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RAVAUT Côte de Nuits-Villages 2014
Ansonia Retail: $36
case, half-case price: $29/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Mixed Case: Affordable Burgundies
Burgundy isn’t known for its inexpensive wines. A limited growing area and perpetually high demand make it hard to find bottles below $30. For most wine drinkers Burgundies are special occasion wines — elegant and ageworthy, but too pricey for a Wednesday.
We do our best to find affordable options from Burgundy, and we’ve collected four of our favorites into this case. The reds display the bright, earthy, Burgundian side of Pinot Noir.
The whites represent both ends of the white Burgundy spectrum — crisp and unoaked vs rich and smooth.
We think everyone should be able to enjoy Burgundy on a regular basis — this case should help do so without breaking the bank.
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Ravaut Bourgogne blanc 2015
Ravaut’s entry level white Burgundy is the richest and fullest we have. Their subtle use of oak melts beautifully into the baked lemon and mango core.
Prunier Bourgogne rouge 2014
Michel Prunier’s Bourgogne is simple, clean, bright, and delicious. Look for notes of cherry jam and dried roses in the nose, with a lively, pleasant, effortlessly drinkable mouth.
Gautheron Petit Chablis 2015
This unoaked Chardonnay perfectly reflects the mineral freshness and stoniness found only in Chablis. Look for notes of lemon rind, crushed shells, saline, and herbs.
Desvignes Givry 2014
Grown south of Burgundy’s famous Côte d’Or, this Givry is packed with rugged red fruit. Look for notes of black cherry and graphite, with round, juicy tannins.
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AFFORDABLE BURGUNDIES
3x Ravaut Bourgogne blanc 15: $29
3x Prunier Bourgogne rouge 14: $26
3x Gautheron Petit Chablis 15: $20
3x Desvignes Givry 14: $26
Ansonia Retail: $303
offer price: $250/case
free East Coast shipping | save $53
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Almost Meursault: White Burgundy from a Forgotten Valley.
Rue Less Traveled. Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet get most of the white Burgundy press. But surrounding towns can offer excellent value. Many whites from St-Aubin and Santenay punch way above their weight, as does today’s white Burgundy from Auxey-Duresses.
Auxey-Duresses is often overlooked, a town set in the crook of a bucolic valley just west of Meursault. Master of Wine Clive Coates calls Michel Prunier “certainly the best grower” in the town, though Monsieur Prunier himself is humble, welcoming, and kind. At barely 5 feet tall, he perfectly fits the charming, small-town Burgundian feel of the region.
For white Burgundy fans in search of a drink-now bottle, this is unusually pretty and well priced wine.
Exquisite. Prunier’s 2014 Auxey-Duresses will remind you more than a little of Meursault. The nose is explosive and gorgeous — honeysuckle, elderflower, and mango burst from an effusive bouquet. The mouth is just as rich as the nose, with a pleasant chalky minerality and lemon acidity to balance. Between the candied lemon rind nose and smooth, low-oak mouth, this is about as accessible as white Burgundy gets.
This is perfect for an after-work glass of white — round and complex but beautifully balanced, and not demanding of undivided attention. In the kitchen, pair this with something citrusy — the richness in the glass will balance out the lemon. Tuna or swordfish garnished with lemon work well, as does Mark Bittman’s scallops with basil and lemon.
Sometimes a particularly grand moment calls for a white Burgundy from the Big Three (or even Grand Cru Chablis). But for Burgundy lovers with a nose for value, we can’t recommend this enough.
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PRUNIER Auxey-Duresses 2014
Ansonia Retail: $38
half-case price: $32/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Video Update: January 23, 2017
“Terrific Power:” 2014 Grand Cru White Burgundy, 93 points
At last. After a string of difficult years between 2010 and 2013, Burgundy collectors are rejoicing. Two magnificent vintages — 2014 in whites, and 2015 in reds — are being heralded as some of the finest in decades. The 2015 reds are just coming to market (see our current January Futures), but today we’re releasing a gem from 2014.
The Domaine Collet’s star has risen since young winemaker Romain took over a few years ago. Today’s wine is the family’s finest — the Grand Cru “Valmur.” Grand Cru white Burgundy can run quickly past $100 a bottle, and often costs several times that. But Chablis is still a source for value in white Burgundy, and today’s offer is a perfect example.
This is the highest rung of white Burgundy, from a spectacular vintage. It’s still not quite an everyday price, but if you’ve ever wondered what Grand Cru tastes like, here’s a great chance.
Intense. Collet’s 2014 Grand Cru Valmur is massive. Romain has expertly balanced Chablis’s signature minerality with a richness and intensity that calls to mind Corton-Charlemagne or Montrachet. Allen Meadows (Burghound), who renewed reviewing Collet recently after he perceived an improvement in quality, awarded 93 points, finding the 2014 Valmur “beautifully persistent,” with “large-scaled flavors” and “terrific power.”
This is exceptionally powerful wine. The nose shows gardenia, green tea, and baked lemon flavors, with a bright chalky stoniness that enhances the fruit. The mouth is simply packed with flavor — it’s bold and rich, but vibrant in texture. It should match beautifully with seafood and shellfish, particularly in butter or cream; but for now it’s almost meal in itself.
This will develop beautifully for several years — indeed well-aged Chablis can be a complex gustatory delight. But pour some into a glass today — we recommend a large Burgundy balloon to let it develop — and with one sniff you’ll understand what all the fuss is about.
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COLLET Chablis Grand Cru “Valmur” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $70
quarter-case price: $59/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 3- 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Saturday Recipe: Boeuf Bourguignon
The World’s Finest Pinot Noir: “Supremely Elegant” Vosne-Romanée
History. Michel Gros is as much a part of Vosne-Romanée as the pointed steeple, the ancient vineyards, and the narrow crooked streets. He is a lifelong resident of the town, as were his father and grandfather before him — his mother was even mayor. The Gros family name has been synonymous with Vosne-Romanee for centuries.
Their most famous vineyard is the premier cru monopole “Clos des Réas,” the only one in the appellation. It is a magnificent property, stretching over 2 hectares, and turning out wines described by critics as “supremely elegant,” “opulent” and “genius.” It has long been a favorite of ours, and we’ve recently acquired a few cases of the excellent 2012.
For Burgundian grace and prestige, there’s not a whole lot that matches this wine.
Magnificent. The 2012 vintage was extremely small in Burgundy. A cold, wet spring led to reduced yields, resulting in very concentrated wines. Most wine writers anticipate long lives for these dense, concentrated wines, but we’ve found they’ve already begun to show their colors. Particularly with an hour in a decanter and beside a choice cut of meat, the 2012s just sing these days.
Allen Meadows (Burghound) found the 2012 Réas had “exceptionally good richness…that completely coats the palate,” a result of the low-yield, dense vintage. He called it an “opulent effort,” predicting it would be “approachable young if desired.” And though he noted Michel’s usually modesty on the subject of his own wines, Meadows called the 2012s “among the best I have seen from him.”
Réas is the wine we get out for special occasions in our family. It’s elegant, luxurious, and perfectly balanced — everything you want from a top red Burgundy. It’s not exactly at weeknight pricing, but special moments call for special wines. We think it’s healthy to have at least a handful of special occasions each year; and whatever that means for you, Réas will provide a perfect companion.
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GROS Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Clos des Réas” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $130
2-bottle price: $115/bot
half-case price: $105/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 2- AND 6- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Video Update: January 17, 2017
The Only Côtes-du-Rhône You Need. $12.95
Ubiquitous. For a universally crowd-pleasing red, it’s hard to beat Côtes du Rhône. Guests with New World leanings will appreciate the richness and full flavor. Those with Old World inclinations will appreciate the balance and traditional style. (Your great aunt who likes drugstore merlot might turn up her nose, but you weren’t going to please her anyway.)
This year, the simplest Côtes du Rhône in our lineup might also be one of the best. The Domaine les Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône is always pleasant and refreshing — with dark fruit, juicy tannins, and a clean finish. But in 2015, a year when a very warm summer produced exceptional ripeness, it’s unusually rich and smooth.
We’d guess most readers would be thrilled with this wine at $20/bot — it’s rich and clean and velvety, with far more energy than most reds at your local store. At under $13 per bottle, it might be the only Côtes du Rhône you need.
Rules. Our criteria for good Côtes du Rhône are threefold: inexpensive, dark, and balanced. Goubert’s Côtes du Rhône hits all three points. It’s low in alcohol, which keeps it fresh and lively on the palate. The blend of six grapes — Terret Noir, Picpoul, and Vaccarèse join the familiar Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan — forms a rich, hearty, dark wine. And finally, a Côtes du Rhône should be inexpensive enough to pull out at a moment’s notice: at $13/bot, this is a wine to enjoy without planning.
This is a great by-the-glass wine for your kitchen, something to enjoy during the preparation and enjoyment of a meal. The 2015 is very expressive, showing dark wild cherries, raspberries, and licorice. The mouth is both jammy and refreshing, with notes of white pepper, minerals, and plums. Serve this with anything from hamburgers to our favorite pasta: oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, and ample grated parmesan.
Keep a few of these around for when you don’t know what else to serve. Your guests won’t believe what you paid for it.
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GOUBERT Côtes-du-Rhône 2015
Ansonia Retail: $15
case, half-case: $12.95/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
Crisp, Dry, and Elegant: a New Generation of Muscadet. $19
Saltair. Perched where the Loire river meets the windswept Atlantic coast, Muscadet has long been a source for a classic, dry white wine. Served by the carafe in the oyster bars of Paris and London for decades, it’s refreshing, abundant, and inexpensive — a perfect glass to wash down a plate of crustaceans.
In the last few years Muscadet has undergone a reinvention of sorts with the elevation of three of the region’s best towns to a new “Cru Communal” status. Today’s wine comes from one of these three leaders in the new wave of Muscadet. Combining excellent terroir with extended years on the lees, this is an unusually complex take on a classic.
Maritime. Martin-Luneau is a fourth generation family domaine farming old vines on the plains south of Nantes. Their 2012 Muscadet “Clisson” is the best wine we’ve imported yet from them — a marriage of the brisk, refreshing essence of the sea, with the delicate herbal and fruit flavors of western France. This is not your grandfather’s Muscadet — it’s a new generation’s take on a classic French staple.
The nose of the 2012 Clisson is clean and pure, showing dried flowers, melons, and lemon. The mouth is smooth and very dry, with notes of stones, salt air, and apple skins. Oysters are the longstanding pairing of choice with Muscadet, and the thick savoriness in this wine is an exceptional foil for the fresh brineyness of an oyster.
The winemakers themselves recommend serving this with a simple moules marinières, made with shallots, parsley, thyme, butter and, of course, Muscadet. As you might expect, the match is magnificent.
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MARTIN-LUNEAU Muscadet “Clisson” 2012
Ansonia Retail: $24
case, half-case: $19/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.
January Futures has been released.
New Weeknight Red Burgundy: Dense, Exuberant Pinot Noir. $25
Rugged. Burgundy is best known for its wines of refinement and elegance. The delicate, often ethereal Pinot Noirs from towns like Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny are known the world around for their beauty and uniqueness. But there’s a whole other world of red Burgundy south of the Côte d’Or.
The red Burgundies of the Côte Chalonnaise are less serious and less expensive, but no less Burgundian. They capture the region’s friendly, welcoming spirit, trading elegance for rusticity, and polish for vigor. Today’s wine, a 2014 Givry 1er cru, perfectly embodies this amiable side of Pinot Noir.
Tasty. The Domaine Desvignes is a small, family-run operation in the heart of Givry. Twenty-something winemaker Gautier Desvignes has recently taken over, and the wines improve each year. The 2014 Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” is charming, combining the a bit of the exuberance of neighboring Beaujolais with the refinement of northern Pinot Noir.
After a half-hour in a decanter this wine is hard to put down. The nose shows dark plum jam and beautiful complexity — look for pan drippings, mushrooms, and earth. The mouth is lively and smooth, with great density, and a long, clean, cherry compote finish.
If you’re a fan of red Burgundy and like to drink Chambolle every night, give us a call — we can help. But for everyone else, we submit this as a delicious and affordable weeknight red Burgundy.
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DESVIGNES Givry 1er cru “Clos Charlé” 2014
Ansonia Retail: $30
case, half-case: $25/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
Email Tom to place an order.
or call Tom: (617) 249-3657
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Terms of sale. Ansonia Wines MA sells wine to individual consumers who are 21 or more years of age, for personal consumption and not for resale. All sales are completed and title passes to purchasers in Massachusetts. Ansonia Wines MA arranges for shipping on behalf of its customers upon request and where applicable laws permit.