As recent temperatures rival the equities markets for precipitousness of decline, the bottles on our dinner table continue to come from more southerly appellations. Cold weather calls for rich wines, usually made in the lower half of France, and from grapes such as Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre.
Category: Rhône
121-Year-Old Grenache Vines. $25
The year is 1895. The United States number 44, and the president is Grover Cleveland. J Edgar Hoover and Babe Ruth are born, and inventor George Selden receives a patent for the automobile. Across the ocean in France (then a six-day crossing by boat), a vineyard of grenache is planted just outside Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Cozy Southern Red for Wintery Weather.
We’re finally getting a dose of real winter here in New England. With cascades of wind and snow hitting the coast this week, we’re opening bottles from a bit further south, in an attempt to channel a bit of that clear Provençal sun.
Uncomplicated Pleasure: New Côtes-du-Rhône
Some things take some getting used to before you can enjoy them. Coffee may be one of the world’s most popular drinks, but is bitter and astringent to children taking a first sip. At first, many wine drinkers dislike the petrol notes in old German Riesling, or the barnyard in old red Burgundy. But many eventually spend years seeking out…
Gigondas: the Châteauneuf Alternative.
Everyone knows of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The famous appellation was heralded by French popes in the 1300s, then rediscovered by Robert Parker in the 1980s. The wines can be truly extraordinary -- (watch next week for a special 9-year-old CDP) -- but are usually at “special occasion” prices.
Wild Honey and Peach: Northern Rhône Viognier
Condrieu is one of the most sought after white wines in the world. Made from pure viognier, and grown in a tiny Northern Rhône appellation of less than half a square mile, this nectar-like white wines is both delicious and pricey. Our favorite source is the brothers Christophe and Patrick Bonnefond.
Mixed Case: Northern vs. Southern Rhône
The Rhône River divides into two very different halves. The Northern Rhône features syrah-based wines from the dramatic slopes of towns like Côte Rôtie and Hermitage. The Southern Rhône offers blends of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, most famously from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Côte-Rôtie: Syrah for a Winter’s Evening.
From the rock-covered fields of Châteauneuf-du-Pape to the mold- and hail-prone slopes of Burgundy, the French plant vines in the most unusual places. And no location makes a vigneron’s life more complicated than the strikingly steep slopes of Côte Rôtie. Here all vineyard work must be done by hand, as tractors and machinery would tip over.
Crisp Syrah for Autumn. $19.95
Syrah is a grape of many forms. Grown everywhere from Spain to Switzerland to South Africa, it ranges from rich and dark to delicate and refreshing. But most agree that Syrah’s finest expression comes from the Northern Rhône, in places like Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, and Saint-Joseph.
Everyday Côtes-du-Rhône. $11.95
Côtes du Rhône is one of the world’s most recognizable brands. From Parisian bistro chalkboards to grocery store shelves in the States, it seems to be everywhere. And as with most popular appellations, we’ve had bottles both memorable and forgettable.
A Delicious Experiment in the Rhône. $25
There’s a sense of ancient history in the south of France. Roman-era towns and crumbling ruins dot the countryside -- even the modern highways follow the ancient “Via Agrippa” of the Romans. Winemaking here is just as old, and archeologists have found presses dating back to 400 BC.
By-the-Glass Côtes-du-Rhône. $15
Some wines hit a sweet spot between balance, versatility, and price. These are wines to reach for after a long day at work, or to drink while curled up with a book. They’re wines you don’t need to think hard about – uncomplicated, refreshing, and inexpensive.
New Provencal Rosé. $15
Rosé just keeps getting better. With demand on the rise, vignerons are experimenting with new cuvées and interesting blends. The Domaine les Goubert, long our favorite source for Gigondas, joined the game last year with the excellent dry “Rosé de Flo,” a project of the family’s daughter Florence.
Crozes-Hermitage: Spice and Syrah
The first thing we consider when describing a wine is its fruit. We decide whether the fruits are light or dark, cooked or fresh, sweet or dry, and so on. An astounding range of scents can emerge from a glass of wine despite their common source, Vitis vinifera.
Cotes-du-Rhône for a Summer Afternoon.
Not all meals in France are complicated. On Tuesday we shared a delightful afternoon meal with the Cartier Family, owners of the Domaine les Goubert. On a sun-filled terrace in the charming Provençal town of Séguret, we each enjoyed a fresh salad, a glass of wine, a simple dessert, and a small coffee -- no fanfare, just simple elegance.